Styling - Ben Schofield
Casting - Sophie Lynas at Leda Casting
Set Design - Abigail Fletcher
Hair - Anna Cofone at The Wall Group using Fudge Professional
Make Up - Mona Leanne at The Wall Group
Footwear - Dr. Martens
Archive Photography Prints - John Bulmer
Words - Naomi Pike
Looking to his own heritage, DANIEL w. FLETCHER’s autumn/winter 2019 collection is a celebration of the North. With a rich history of textile manufacturing, the area’s influence permeates in his collection through the use of fine fabrics from British mills, super-fine merino wools in Prince of Wales check, houndstooth for tailoring and double-faced scarves made at Yorkshire’s historic Abraham Moon & Sons mill.
It was on research trips to the area, while preparing for his entry into the 2019 International Woolmark Prize, that Fletcher was reminded of the specialist industry that thrives in this country. It’s not only in the wools, merinos and silks that this has been realised in his autumn/winter 2019 collection, but also in the selvedge and industrial printing details that are reimagined as feature motifs on tailoring and shirting.
Silk shirts, T-shirts and scarves – created in collaboration with photojournalist John Bulmer – are printed with his images of the North in the 1960s, illustrating a time of mass industrial and social change. In placing them within the context of his contemporary wardrobe, Fletcher likens the area at that time to the uncertain socio-political climate Britain is faced with today.
Heritage – Fletcher’s own, that of the North and the one belonging to Britain’s future – has proved a key influence throughout the collection. The North’s creative pursuits have long been celebrated, and Fletcher does it this season by linking the clothes back through hand-picked manufacturing and their form.
The storied craftsmanship of Britain is evident in the silhouettes that marry the brand’s signature tailoring, slim hems and open cuffs with nostalgic sporting details: odes to jockey shirts, rugby shirting and classic school P.E. shorts.
Double-breasted top coats are worn with jodhpur-style trousers, while mohair-panelled knitwear is teamed with satin boxing shorts. Menswear staples denim jackets and five-pocket jeans are reimagined in luxurious merino wools and shiny satins, before being top-stitched to create an inside-out appearance.
A formal riding jacket is introduced and worn with a wide elastic belt that marries the look of both a surgical belt and a traditional cummerbund, then teamed with military-style trousers that feature wide-contrast panel stripes and splits falling over chunky Dr Martens boots. It’s a look that feels familiar, but simultaneously unexpected.
The collection is set against a single piece of merino houndstooth cloth woven in Huddersfield, designed by Abigail Fletcher, in a surrounding that feels fresh for Fletcher this season. Experimenting with a salon-style setting, the intimate environment has been created to echo the collection’s inspirations and foundations. Suspended in the centre of the space, it was important to Fletcher that from all angles, the beauty and craftsmanship of the cloth pulls focus as it moves with the models as they walk.
DANIEL w. FLETCHER autumn/winter 2019 is an homage to the factories, the talent, the art schools and the craftsmanship that has long existed in, inspired and fueled Great Britain. Like all designers working out of this country today, the very real threat of a divided existence is pertinent to his practice and output, materialising in a collection that champions traditional craft and industry.